Drinker's Peace + 2

The Wall Street Journal, The Weekly Standard, and Christoper Hitchens. I may read all three with a certain mixture of regard and disregard, but rarely do I link over. Today I'll make an exception, for Hitchens' review of Eric Felten's forthcoming Cocktails, Culture, and the Art of Drinking Well. RM has long been an admirer of Felten's reviews in the WSJ, I believe, and I am duly excited by the arrival of this book. I'm sure it will be well-worn copy, referenced often by Mssrs. M and W and myself. From Hitchens' review:

His remark about one or two but never three has been, I hope, lifted from my own axiom about the relationship between martinis and female breasts. One is too few. Three is too many. Two seems somehow superbly right. His second observation, about the girlie factor, is something that greatly preoccupies Felten. When all is said, isn't there something very slightly fussy about all this mixing and shaking and measuring: something, perhaps, fractionally light in the loafers?
Borrowing from an old Esquire distinction, he suggests that masculine cocktails involve whiskey whereas feminine ones "lean heavily on cream, fruit juices and crème de this-and-that." That seems fair enough, except that both he and Kingsley Amis (about whom there was nothing limp-wristed) demonstrate a high degree of affection for the "Irish Coffee" cocktail and the exquisitely careful means of making it. Of course whiskey, which Felten calls "that least feminine-seeming of spirits," is involved, so the honors here can be reckoned as about even.

I believe we are all agreed. And to off-set the war-mongering behind all of this, three from Uncle Bob and GBV, everyman's drinking man.

Rave: The Good Fork

Twice I've had dinner at Red Hook's The Good Fork, and twice I've had incredible meals. My first visit, last summer, was with a large crew, headed by SR, AF and friends. We took over the large table in the back garden towards the end of the night, around 10.30, after watching a festive Western play at a local playhouse. While we may not have thoroughly charmed our waitresses (I'd like to think we did OK), we managed to sample the better part of the menu and cruise through a couple bottles of wine. Between good company and good food, it was an outstanding night.

So when KP suggested dinner out on Saturday, I leapt at it. Our fivesome showed up for our 8.15 table and happily weathered a slight delay with an opening round of cocktails. I dove right in with the house special "Red Hook Cooler:" gin, lime juice, and mint - delicious and dangerous. Riding the tide (for better or for worse) of this GQ profile, we took a nice table in the garden and proceeded to feast. Highlights include the manchego-stuffed-zucchini florets (the night's special), the grilled peach salad, the cornmeal-encrusted oysters, the crab cake, the pappardelle with pork ragout, and the salmon and trout specials were glowingly devoured. All this, and a couple more Red Hook Coolers, as well. I won't go on and on, but if you're looking for a great night out in Brooklyn, make the trek out to The Good Fork. I had another excellent evening there.

I would be amiss if I didn't mention that after dinner, we crossed the street to LeNell's to pick up some digestif's (well, more gin). What an incredible liquor store!

Finally, we ended the evening back at OES' place, where I had yet to visit. Wow, incredible!

I'm making a public outcry for a BBQ, my friend!

New York Mag's review of The Good Fork.

Dining Out in the Center of the Universe

Starting to settle in to the new apartment, the summer place, in Williamsburg, at Wythe and N. 7th. Neither as charming or babyful as Park Slope, but Williamsburg sure is happening. Hip-wise, it may still be the center of the universe. Along with a host of friends passing through town this week, it was eventful, even as I tried to make it uneventful, while battling a cold. A few notes on bars and restaurants for posterity:

Azul Bistro, Stanton and Suffolk, New York City, NY - Argentinian fare. Met up with AT, in from Colombo, Sri Lanka, and his rather large crew of friends and family. Azul Bistro (see New York Magazine listing) was selected on a recommendation by one of FT's friends, and it turned out to be quite good. While I had a filet mignon, I will certainly recommend the grilled skirt steak, which I sampled, and is a house specialty. With either mashed potatoes or fries, and a good red wine (of which the selection is quite ranging and good), you'll be satisfied. Probably about $40/per, or maybe $60/per if AT is ordering the wine... Extra marks for the Maradona and Che Guevara newsprint wall hangings...

Lotus Club, Stanton and Clinton, New York City, NY. Not to be confused with the other, schmancier Lotus, if it still exist. Lotus on the LES (see Yelp) has been an old stand-by for a place to grab a mellow drink, since TL used to drag me down there when his friends were DJ-ing. Got a few drinks with LM, in from London, and CD and NG. Keep it in the back pocket, for when you need a quieter night in Manhattan.

The Orchard,Orchard St. at Stanton St, New York City, NY. Met up with RM, JP, and LM for dinner, on account of JP and LM being in town from London. Failed to have tolerance for the wait at Barrio Chino, so we roamed around until we stumbled into Orchard. RM commented that the decor reminded him of a hotel restaurant. This was apt. The sour apple and goat cheese salad and the ravioli were both excellent. The wine was OK, the menu a little pricey. LM's conversation, as always, priceless. Good if you are first dating a management consultant, or maybe need to take your parents out to dinner. A NYT review that is puzzlingly effusive, just for you.

Pete's Candy Store, Lorimer St. at Richardson St., Brooklyn, NY. Met up with HP, CC, GB, who were in from far-flung locales, plus friends. Had a few beers. Pete's is great, one of many indie-rock sanctuaries that dot the Brooklyn landscape. Always nice people around, live music most nights in the back room, a nice back yard, and good music in the front room (GBV off an iPod). Can't complain.

The Blue Bar at the Algonquin Hotel, 44th St. btw/ 5th and 6th, New York City, NY. If you have a good friend who likes the old ways - old bars, old drinks, old stories, and old men - and you have a couple of hours to kill in midtown, then the Blue Bar is as likely a place as any to get a little sozzled and miss a train or two. JWW and I caught up for a couple of gins, talkin' about old times (i.e., the trip to San Diego last week) and home repairs. Worth a stop, but it'll cost you for your drinks.

Nita Nita, North 8th and Wythe, Brooklyn, NY - off-the-path tapas bar. Turned up with a slightly rowdy foursome of boys (JAW, DR, and newby MM). The music was excellent (think atmospheric indie-rock), the chorizo was excellent, the cheese plate was too small, and the rest of the food was reasonably good. Beautiful back yard. Would recommend it for drinks and a small bit, but not necessarily dinner. A little pricey ($30/per to fill up) and they don't take credit cards. May shoot for a bar night here this summer. For more, see this L magazine write-up.

Two un-named bars in the Williamsburg hinterlands will be excused from review. Part of JAW and my enjoyable but poorly considered jaunt out into a humid Brooklyn night. One place was a converted loft with three young ladies playing very bad noise rock, the other a biker bar where six dollars and two spins of the Wheel of Drinks bought us a PBR and a shot of Jaegermeister. I've done this before, don't necessarily need to again.

Sweetwater, N. 6th between Berry and Wythe, Brooklyn, NY. DR and I joined JAW for a post-poker nightcap at Sweetwater, at the invitation of one of JAW's lady friends. Didn't have anything to eat, but the friendly and charming wait staff assured us the food was good. The winning touches here were a lovely raised garden seating area out back, and the decision to play the entirety of And Nothing Turned Itself Inside Out as a quiet close to a quiet evening. Citysearch review, which also claims that this is part of the Patois-Schnak-etc. dynasty, for your perusal.