Mexican Weekend

The margaritas should be as large as a neurosurgeon's head - Mexican proverb

Not infrequently, it occurs to me that I'm a member of a unique generation, for whom two things are true. I can remember life without email and web browsing and I can remember a time when ethnic food was exotic in a strange way, not an exciting way. When it was harder to keep in constant touch with faraway people, particularly in the frivolous, everyday way allowed by email and Flickr and blogs and the lot. And when sushi was something that only New York yuppies or California weirdos ate, and where, if you grew up in the suburbs, you were lucky to have a single greasy Chinese place serving pu-pu platters and a Taco Bell. A time, the 80s, specifically, before the two great themes of our generation became manifest: globalization and the Intenret.

One strange remnant of this disconnected provincialism held over into New York when I first arrived here eight years ago: it was hard to find really good Mexican food. Why?

It didn't really make any sense, but it was almost a truism. And not even in comparison to the excessive pride that San Francisco takes in its burritos. Even compared to the odd Mexican restaurant that you might find at the bottom of Federal Hill in Providence, or on California Avenue in Palo Alto.

No more.

Unplanned, but not unappreciated, I spent a weekend eating Mexican food recently, and I can heartily recommend two New York venues.

First, Nolita's Cafe El Portal, which I visited with friends following after work drinks. Cozy, inexpensive, and quite delicious (at least if you're hungry and a little drunk), the real winning touch is that, while waiting to seat you in their small, sunken dining room, they will bring you frozen margaritas in plastic cups for you to enjoy on the sidewalk. Drinks on the sidewalk. Ole!

Second, Brooklyn's Hecho En Dumbo, in my favorite neighborhood, for its feel of secret abandon. Traditional Mexican fare, classed up in that way that certain neighborhood's demand. Also, atmospheric in the right ways. Not everything was a home run, but the sopas with crab meat were delicious, and the spicy pork tacos were the bomb.

Finally, worth a mention, less for the food than the frozen margaritas, the venue, the crowd, the green-friendly ethic, is Habana Outpost. Go there after a summer rain, where it's not as crowded, everything is just as good, and there's likely to be a MeetUp.

Food Coma

Actually, not the good kind. I'm coining a new usage for the term, where I feel like I've been incapacitated for a few months and have somehow not managed to have a truly heroic meal in quite some time. There have been a handful of notable intervening moments, some even in the run of day to day life. Curried chicken sandwiches from Balthazar, arepas at Caracas, dim sum and Singaporean pan-fried noodles at Kudeta in New Haven. But nothing momentous, and no food adventures planned in advance.

Lazing in the apartment this afternoon after soccer and a stroll through Brooklyn Flea brought the sorry truth crashing down on my head, as I had the TV on as I puttered about, and the only channel worth watching was 13, since every other over-air channel had been pre-empted by La Papa rock and roll mass-travaganza in Yankee Stadium, and the only thing on 13 was a string of food shows. Two observations: while I enjoy food shows, love watching food made and presented, love the travelogue context in which most of them are presented, I don't think I would personally get along with most food writers. They just seem so pompous, badly built for TV, but also badly built for sharing a dinner table. Second, they need to re-invent smell-o-vision. When you are watching a food show, and the hosts and the guests and everybody involved is just ooh-ing and aah-ing over the aromas in the kitchen, well, how frustrating!

On that note, a few food-related links on the Interweb:

- Chocolate and Zucchini, a Paris-based food blog which I was introduced to while watching one of those shows on 13;
- AR's delightful Treat A Week recipe blog, which was featuring donuts, the last time I checked;
- The Moko's ridiculous and charming candy blog. It's bizarre that she is one of the most influential women in Europe, but she has a secret sugar problem;
- Food Candy, dB's epicurean side-project, which I woefully under-use.

With that, any recommendations for great NYC food resources? Or anywhere I should go eat?

Rave: Bahn Mi, Point Judith Seafood Shacks, Brickley's and Del's

Vietnamese sandwiches, Vietnamese street food. Until this summer, I had no idea that this was a specific thing (which isn't to say that I hadn't eaten them before). What can I say? They are absolutely delicious. I can unequivocally recommend Silent h on North 9th and Berry in Brooklyn and Banh Mi Saigon Bakery at Mott below Grand. Check out this Gridskipper post for more (and this Time Out New York "Cheap Eats" article for a wider variety of cheap sandwiches...)

While we're on the subject of eating, let's not forget Aunt Carrie's in Narragansett, RI, where clam cakes, lobster rolls, clam strip rolls, and chowder were the order of the night on Saturday evening, followed by rich, homemade ice cream at Brickley's on 1A, and preceded by a refreshing Del's on the beach. Who says you can't eat like a king in South County?

SF: Hole in the Wall Dining

Gridskipper is a cool site about city life that I never have the time to read. It is one of those millions of websites that I should check out more often (too much information, perhaps?). Check out their recommendations on "SF's Best Hole in the Wall Restaurants." I've only been to Emmy's, which was a little hip, but the meatballs and the pasta were great.

UPDATE: More from Gridskipper:

Best under $5 drinks in Chicago, where it looks like I may be next week!
And as a special treat for RM, a guide to the veggieburgers in New York!
And a special treat for me (1 for 5 this summer...)

Rave: The Good Fork

Twice I've had dinner at Red Hook's The Good Fork, and twice I've had incredible meals. My first visit, last summer, was with a large crew, headed by SR, AF and friends. We took over the large table in the back garden towards the end of the night, around 10.30, after watching a festive Western play at a local playhouse. While we may not have thoroughly charmed our waitresses (I'd like to think we did OK), we managed to sample the better part of the menu and cruise through a couple bottles of wine. Between good company and good food, it was an outstanding night.

So when KP suggested dinner out on Saturday, I leapt at it. Our fivesome showed up for our 8.15 table and happily weathered a slight delay with an opening round of cocktails. I dove right in with the house special "Red Hook Cooler:" gin, lime juice, and mint - delicious and dangerous. Riding the tide (for better or for worse) of this GQ profile, we took a nice table in the garden and proceeded to feast. Highlights include the manchego-stuffed-zucchini florets (the night's special), the grilled peach salad, the cornmeal-encrusted oysters, the crab cake, the pappardelle with pork ragout, and the salmon and trout specials were glowingly devoured. All this, and a couple more Red Hook Coolers, as well. I won't go on and on, but if you're looking for a great night out in Brooklyn, make the trek out to The Good Fork. I had another excellent evening there.

I would be amiss if I didn't mention that after dinner, we crossed the street to LeNell's to pick up some digestif's (well, more gin). What an incredible liquor store!

Finally, we ended the evening back at OES' place, where I had yet to visit. Wow, incredible!

I'm making a public outcry for a BBQ, my friend!

New York Mag's review of The Good Fork.

Dining Out in the Center of the Universe

Starting to settle in to the new apartment, the summer place, in Williamsburg, at Wythe and N. 7th. Neither as charming or babyful as Park Slope, but Williamsburg sure is happening. Hip-wise, it may still be the center of the universe. Along with a host of friends passing through town this week, it was eventful, even as I tried to make it uneventful, while battling a cold. A few notes on bars and restaurants for posterity:

Azul Bistro, Stanton and Suffolk, New York City, NY - Argentinian fare. Met up with AT, in from Colombo, Sri Lanka, and his rather large crew of friends and family. Azul Bistro (see New York Magazine listing) was selected on a recommendation by one of FT's friends, and it turned out to be quite good. While I had a filet mignon, I will certainly recommend the grilled skirt steak, which I sampled, and is a house specialty. With either mashed potatoes or fries, and a good red wine (of which the selection is quite ranging and good), you'll be satisfied. Probably about $40/per, or maybe $60/per if AT is ordering the wine... Extra marks for the Maradona and Che Guevara newsprint wall hangings...

Lotus Club, Stanton and Clinton, New York City, NY. Not to be confused with the other, schmancier Lotus, if it still exist. Lotus on the LES (see Yelp) has been an old stand-by for a place to grab a mellow drink, since TL used to drag me down there when his friends were DJ-ing. Got a few drinks with LM, in from London, and CD and NG. Keep it in the back pocket, for when you need a quieter night in Manhattan.

The Orchard,Orchard St. at Stanton St, New York City, NY. Met up with RM, JP, and LM for dinner, on account of JP and LM being in town from London. Failed to have tolerance for the wait at Barrio Chino, so we roamed around until we stumbled into Orchard. RM commented that the decor reminded him of a hotel restaurant. This was apt. The sour apple and goat cheese salad and the ravioli were both excellent. The wine was OK, the menu a little pricey. LM's conversation, as always, priceless. Good if you are first dating a management consultant, or maybe need to take your parents out to dinner. A NYT review that is puzzlingly effusive, just for you.

Pete's Candy Store, Lorimer St. at Richardson St., Brooklyn, NY. Met up with HP, CC, GB, who were in from far-flung locales, plus friends. Had a few beers. Pete's is great, one of many indie-rock sanctuaries that dot the Brooklyn landscape. Always nice people around, live music most nights in the back room, a nice back yard, and good music in the front room (GBV off an iPod). Can't complain.

The Blue Bar at the Algonquin Hotel, 44th St. btw/ 5th and 6th, New York City, NY. If you have a good friend who likes the old ways - old bars, old drinks, old stories, and old men - and you have a couple of hours to kill in midtown, then the Blue Bar is as likely a place as any to get a little sozzled and miss a train or two. JWW and I caught up for a couple of gins, talkin' about old times (i.e., the trip to San Diego last week) and home repairs. Worth a stop, but it'll cost you for your drinks.

Nita Nita, North 8th and Wythe, Brooklyn, NY - off-the-path tapas bar. Turned up with a slightly rowdy foursome of boys (JAW, DR, and newby MM). The music was excellent (think atmospheric indie-rock), the chorizo was excellent, the cheese plate was too small, and the rest of the food was reasonably good. Beautiful back yard. Would recommend it for drinks and a small bit, but not necessarily dinner. A little pricey ($30/per to fill up) and they don't take credit cards. May shoot for a bar night here this summer. For more, see this L magazine write-up.

Two un-named bars in the Williamsburg hinterlands will be excused from review. Part of JAW and my enjoyable but poorly considered jaunt out into a humid Brooklyn night. One place was a converted loft with three young ladies playing very bad noise rock, the other a biker bar where six dollars and two spins of the Wheel of Drinks bought us a PBR and a shot of Jaegermeister. I've done this before, don't necessarily need to again.

Sweetwater, N. 6th between Berry and Wythe, Brooklyn, NY. DR and I joined JAW for a post-poker nightcap at Sweetwater, at the invitation of one of JAW's lady friends. Didn't have anything to eat, but the friendly and charming wait staff assured us the food was good. The winning touches here were a lovely raised garden seating area out back, and the decision to play the entirety of And Nothing Turned Itself Inside Out as a quiet close to a quiet evening. Citysearch review, which also claims that this is part of the Patois-Schnak-etc. dynasty, for your perusal.

It All Adds Up In The End

Have just returned from a fun and productive week in the Bay Area, crashing with my favorite West Coast couple, the Ms, catching up with both CC (of soon to be CC 4 President fame) and CC (of taking too many classes and stressing out fame), the cousins, the feuding cousins, taking in a Giants game (4-2 over the Astros) with the Ms, JT,and WS, and playing sparring partner to MM on his new video gaming system (Madden 2007). Fell asleep during Shrek 3 at the Capitol drive-in down in the Jose, grabbed a nice meal with RW at Weird Fish, crashed the "Dress Sexy" graduate school party at EV on Stanford Campus, later than night crashed the extremely depressing Karaoke night at the Acapulco in San Jose, and forced Chicago CC down to the W hotel bar for a drink among the suits, prior to catching up with VG and MK. Also, crashed a corporate retreat at Zott's for an afternoon beer and caught up with MF to discuss adventures in Africa. Oh, and the TIE Conference. That mostly sums it up, minus the interviews.

With that behind me, and kid sis graduating Wesleyan this weekend, I leave you with the mish-mash:

- Professor ND sends me this interesting link to artist Chris Jordan's composite photos commenting on consumption in America (photos above and below). Definitely worth a look. Very cool stuff.
- The blog Daily Film Dose has an awesome post on notable long tracking shots in films. Many you have seen before, others you have probably never heard of. Most are worth a look, and the folks over there have gone to the trouble of digging up YouTube clips for almost everything. Definitely worth wasting thirty minutes of your time.
- "Yesterday in downtown Boston, the sun was shining and the sky seemed especially blue. Dad and I walked through the park in Boston Common on our way to lunch and I remember saying, 'What a nice day, something good is going to happen.'" Classic Simmons, documenting his reaction to (and possible causing of?) the next ten years of futility for the Boston Celtics.
- GB forwards this NYT article on how to make a good burger. Pretty simple, so people get your grills ready.
- Finally, New York Magazine on Miranda July's new collection of stories.

Enjoy the long weekend, folks.

Moko and the Mignon

EBC returned from Finland and brought us all Mignon eggs for Easter/our birthdays. They are real eggs, drained of their content (presumably sterilized) and then filled with delicious chocolate. Totally charming and delicious. But this is not the blog for reading about chocolate. This is.